I call this recipe ‘Interesting Compromise Pasta’ because at least the ricotta is better for you than the double cream of yesterday’s naughty pasta.

It is based on a recipe supplied to The Telegraph by Mehrunnisa Yusuf. She includes quite a bit of chilli in her version but the Saucy Dressings testers and I all found ourselves attempting to gasp and choke quietly and politely – not easy, the tears give you away. I think it’s better just with a little white pepper but if you decide to add chilli do so cautiously.

Recipe for Interesting, Compromise, Courgette Pasta

Serves 4

Ingredients

• 3 tbsp olive oil
• 500g/1 lb/ approximately three courgettes
• 3 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed with the flat of a knife with the salt below
• 3 tbsps lemon juice, or zest and juice of a small fresh lemon
• 25g/1 oz basil leaves
• 250g/8 oz ricotta
• 2 tsp smoked salt and some freshly ground pepper
• 500g/1 lb small pasta – Mehrunnisa Yusuf uses orzo (not the grain, the pasta), but small Sardinian malloreddus, or Greek kritharaki, or small macaroni would also be fine
• flaked almonds (these are essential to this dish, they are not optional)

Method

1. If you have got the bit between the teeth on the spiralising front, by all means spiralise the courgettes, otherwise chop into small matchsticks, or grate.
2. Fry the courgettes in the oil until they start to turn golden.
3. Add the garlic and the lemon zest if you are using a fresh lemon.
4. Get your pasta going and cook according to the instructions.
5. Cook the courgettes for another quarter of an hour or so until they’re quite mushy.
6. Dry fry the flaked almonds.
7. Tear the basil leaves and add to the courgettes together with the lemon juice.
8. Mash up the ricotta and stir in.
9. Toss with the drained pasta and serve, garnished with the almonds.

This post is dedicated to Katie and Georgie Lansdell.

Music to cook to

You could listen to Muirtown House, from Lauren MacColl’s latest album, Strewn With Ribbons as you transform your courgettes into strips.