We produce some truly impressive blue cheeses in the British Isles.

From England, there is Stichelton, king of them all (I’d say ahead, even, than Roquefort and Gorgonzola, although it’s a close-run thing) springs immediately to mind. Then maybe Shopshire Blue. But there are also Exmoor Blue, Isle of Wight Blue, and Yorkshire Blue.

And there are some pretty stunning Irish blue cheeses too: Cashel Blue, Crozier Blue and Bellingham Blue, to name just three.

Lanark Blue is Scotland’s answer to Roquefort.

And from Carmarthenshire in south Wales comes Perl Las.

Perl Las means Blue Pearl in Welsh, and it is, truly, a pearl among cheeses. It’s a golden, creamy pasteurised, blue-green veined, cows’ cheese, with a textured, ridged, sea salt-rubbed rind. It’s slightly salty, the taste deepening as it matures. Organic Food awards judges described it as ‘lovely and unique with a strong lingering flavour’.

The cheese is made by Carwyn Adams at Caws Cenarth dairy, a family enterprise which saw two of Adams’ great-great- grandmothers also making cheese for the family.

Good on its own, on a piece of Swedish crispbread, with a glass of sauternes, port or damson gin; it’s also excellent to cook with, mix with butter for an instant sauce for steak, crumble into cream for an instant pasta sauce, crumble onto pumpkin soup, or over a rocket, walnut and celery salad. Or search the Saucy Dressings site, ‘blue cheese’ for many other ideas.

Suitable for vegetarians.

There are two versions: organic and non-organic.